Manila, my Manila


It was supposed to be an uneventful tour day.

At around 11: 00 AM last September 26, I was wrapping the the Walls of THIS Content (Intramuros) walk when water started creeping in San Agustin Museum.

Oh wow, that’s something else. Realizing that the water was not going to go down any further, I told my group to take off their shoes, jump in the water and continue the last part of the tour.

Ondoy

We were going to finish this with or without my shoes on.

Of course,  typical of Filipino resilience, everyone jumps in and gleefully poses a pic for posterity.

Ondoy 2

I was so glad the participants were all locals.

The tour ends memorably for me and (Im pretty sure) for my group as well.

The courtyard of San Agustin was now flooded and water was seeping in the church.

There was a wedding going with a tricycle parked outside to carry the bride.

What a memorable wedding for the couple,  I thought.

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It was only around Sunday evening when we got our power backed that I realized the extent.

Water, water everywhere and even places which Ive never seen flooded in living memory like Makati and Binondo.

Im so glad I canceled my tour for Chinatown in the afternoon.

To all the victims, I pray for strength to all of us who were victims of this tragedy.

If you want to donate and help, you may direct your donations to these two following outlets:

1. Kaisa Heritage Center (Bahay Tsinoy Museum)

Anda Corner Cabildo Street , Intramuros

Tel:  526-6798 and 527-6083

2.  Binondo-Paco Volunteer Fire Brigade

1245 Paz Street, Paco

or at Cafe Mezanine

650 Ongpin Street, Binondo

Cash or Kind donations accepted. If you’d rather,you can also spare some time in repacking for relief goods at the Kaisa Heritage Center

I found myself being among the select few to be invited to the  Filipino and Proud series hosted by the Asia Society. On the menu was  Cristeta Comerford, the Filipino-American who just happens to be executive chef of the White House (yes, Obama and his family too).  It was an interesting one-hour talk where the chef shared nuggets of her life starting living as girl in Manila ( Sampaloc ) to eventually  being the lead kusinera of the most powerful kitchen in  America.

Cristesta Comerford

I learned one important lesson that day: When the telephone rings and you are eating, answer immediately as you never know who’s calling!

Could be Malacanang or the White House. You never know.

Also met the who’s who in the Philippine culinary industry: Glenda Baretto of Via Mare, Jesse Sinsioco of Le Souffle ( I had to tell her how much I enjoy her restaurant and kamias juice) , Gaita Fores of Cibo (I though she was really tall) ,  Mikey Fenix of Food Magazine and my fellow-kabalen Claude Tayag.

Claude

After that it was off the Fort with my fellow brods Ivan Henares and Anton Diaz together with Claude Tayag to try out a new French resto. Yet another culinary lesson from the master, this time, how to distinguish a good croissant from a bad one.

According to Claude, authentic ones are flaky on the top just like hopia.

So there.

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Hey, hey hey, thank you to John Landers of the  Toronto Star for the feature on Manila and yours truly.

Maraming Salamat!

Here is something VERY interesting to do on a Saturday morning.

I’d gladly wake up early for this.

I hope you would too.

—-

The Heritage Conservation society invites everyone to the 3rd Architectural Conservation Lecture entitled

AN INVENTORY OF MANILA’S ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE
by: Arch. Erik Akpedonu and Dr. Fernando N. Zialcita

house

Although many have been lost during World War II and up to now continue to be lost to mindless development at an alarming rate, Manila still has a comparatively rich and varied trove of buildings from the 1600s to today. If  properly conserved and utilized to their full potential, these structures could significantly contribute to the city’s attractiveness and be a source of national pride. Since June 2008, a team organized by the Institute of Philippine Culture of the Ateneo de Manila University has explored the streets of Manila’s various districts in order to document the city’s remaining architectural assets, highlight  the significance of each, and evaluate its present condition, originality and possible threats to its existence . The lecture reports on what has been done so far and discusses some of the distinctive features of each of the districts that were studied.  Second, it tallies heritage buildings that have been lost in recent decades and points out specific current threats to remaining vintage structures in each district.

WHEN: Saturday, 18 July 2009, 8 a.m. (registration)- 12:00 Noon

WHERE: Bukod Tannging Bulwagan, Pamantasan ng Lungsod ng Manila, Intramuros, Manila.

FEES: P500.00 /head

P300.00/head for HCS Members

P100.00/head for full time students

*inclusive of lecture entrance and lunch

For more information, contact our the HCS Secretariat  at 5212239 or hcs_secretariat@yahoo.com.

Look for Dorie

HCS

A decade zips through as the Heritage Conservation Society celebrates its tenth anniversary.

How time flies indeed.  Ten years ago,  I was the same schmuck (only with less grey hair and trying to finish my university degree) who really believed in the advocacy of preserving one’s cultural and architectural heritage. Just a year after the HCS was established,  I was out of on the streets battling it out the Mayor Lito Atienza’s minions on the demolishing of the Jai Alai buiding along Taft Avenue.   Im glad that my school was on the same street and I could make my presence felt over this major cultural indignity.

Street battles aside, I tried to do my every little bit in support of this group’s cause:  writing for papers,  attending their seminars, paying my organization dues and spreading its message succinctly through Old Manila Walks .

This month, as the HCS celebrates her first 10 years, I will again show my support and I’d like to invite everyone who sincerely cares for country’s built heritage join us for  a birthday party and reunion on 20 June 2009. HCS wants to wants to celebrate this in a grand way.  Young as it is, the HCS can boast of a decade of enthusiastically promoting “pride of place” in the entire country.

The Board of Trustees and Gurus will host a benefit dinner at the Miramar Hotel (an Art Deco jewel!) on Roxas Boulevard at 6:00 p.m. on Saturday, 20 June.

Artwork by leading Filipino artists will be raffled off, together with other precious collectibles.  To be auctioned off also is a selected artwork of National Artist nominee, Federico Aguilar Alcuaz.

Please contact the Secretariat (5212239, 5222497, 0917 8668853 or 0922 8712061) for reservation and tickets worth P2,000 each.  Proceeds will help ensure the continued operation of the Society, and the promotion of its conservation goals.

Let’s have a ball!

*Photo courtesy of  Ivan About Town

I am dedicating this tribute to fallen a grand dame.

For more than a century,  this stunning three-story bahay-na bato has stood at the corner of Madrid and Peñarubbia streets in the heart of Manila’s San Nicolas district.  Easily the grandest example colonial domestic architecture this side of Chinatown, this mansion eclipsed most of the period homes in terms of artistry, details and size.

It was a house that awed me as little boy growing up in Binondo,  its architectural merits carrying me through as I moved out of Chinatown,  learning to appreciate and love the very unique  qualities of our very own bahay-na-bato.

Madrid

A few Saturdays ago (May 09 to be exact),  I was doing an impromptuu walking tour of  San Nicolas’ old houses  with a restoration architect and his friend when I saw this:

Madrid 2

Sigh. The old lady has finally bitten the dust.  It feels sad.  Really sad.

This was, after all, a no ordinary house.  According to Eliza Agabin, a researcher from the UST Cultural Heritage  Studies program, this house ” was built in 1890 by a certain Don Lorenzo del Rosario.  From 1914 to 1919, the house was leased out to Instituto de Manila to hold elementary and high school classes. It was a school until 1919 when the Instituto moved to its own building at Sampaloc and expand to become The University of Manila. Around after the second World War, the house was leased to various tenants. “

Vizantina2

Read on and mourn what we just lost.

The Casa Vizantina, made primarily of local hardwood, is aesthetically significant for being representative of the prevailing late 19th century Floral style bahay na bato in Binondo. The characteristics are evident in the delicate embellishments on the facade, including neo-Byzantine elements like slender colonettes and round wooden arches. The facade is significant for its use of quality Philippine hardwood and the workmanship involved in its creation. The facade and the house, forms part of an aesthetically and architecturally important street scape in San Nicolas, Binondo.

This part is even sadder when you realize what people had just taken apart.

“The house is one of the surviving three-story structures from the 19th century that was once common in areas like Binondo that still retains most of its original fabric.”

I can attest to this  stylistic rarity  as I’ve only seen two examples of this in my lifetime (in Chinatown) this and another one which  is now just a mere facade.

There is little ray of hope though.

My sources tell me that the house is being rebuilt in the controversial colonial homes theme park of Mr. Jerry Acuzar in Morong Bataan, something that my fellow namesake and heritage activist Ivan Henares takes a very, very strong stand against of.

I,  for one, am seeing a small light in this particular issue  , the structure itself hasnt been very well maintained in the last few decades. I once took a friend who literally picked up a wooden carved detail which fell off the house. It was a huge squatters camp with electrical wiring dangling dangerously near the wooden panels. A fire could have devoured the house in a couple of hours- easy.

Rather than have it fall into that worse fate, this is probably is the most doable current option to save it.  Not unless somebody is willing to put millions into it.

Still, it is with a heavy a heart that I document this unceremonious uprooting of  a physical link with Manila’s past.

I can only only hope (and pray!) that its architectural integrity is done right when it is resurrected in Morong.  We owe it in honor of the artistic legacy of our ancestral builders.

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In 2005, I made a mini photo documentary of the houses in San Nicolas/Binondo-perhaps the biggest concentration of 19th century period homes in the city.  Let me again walk you through and see how architecturally rich this part of my city is.

Thanks to Out of Town Blog ,my fellow guide Carlos Celdran and Katrina Holigores for the photos. Thanks too to  Eliza Agabin for the info.

sia1

Thank you, Xie Xie and  Terimah Kasih to Singapore Airlines’ inflight magazine  Silver Kris for their lovely feature on Manila  and your truly!

Very edgy photos and really hip lay out.  Gives a really fun dimension to what we have to offer here.

Best of all, its written by a local citizen who’s passion for Manila is only matched by the humidity I’m currently sweating out in this capital I call my home.

Click below for link.

travel_manila_21

Something interesting. Do walk by if you can.

sta-ana-church

GETTING TO KNOW STA.

ANA

Sunday, 15 March 2009 at 9:00 a.m.

Meeting Place: LICHAUCO RESIDENCE ( 2315 Pedro Gil Street,  Sta. Ana, Manila)

Tour Guide: Ms. Sylvia Lichauco de Leon

Itinerary:

An ancestral house being destroyed

Xavier House

Plaza Calderon

Sta. Ana Church (Camarin of our Lady)

Lola Grande House

Plaza Hugo

Little streets in the area

Minimum Donation: P250

Lunch at Mrs. Lichauco’s house

Organized by: Heritage Conservation Society, Museo ng Maynila

Sponsored by: Manila Historical and Heritage Commission

Manila Tourism & Cultural Affairs Bureau

Pamantasan ng Lungsod ng Maynila

Limited slots available!!!

Reserve now @ 5212239 / 0917 866 8853

Ok, so after the long wait, it’s finally out.

Food writer and tv-show host Anthony Bourdain’s much long-awaited No Resevations Philippines premiered last Feburary 16 at the Travel Channel in the U.S.  I have not yet seen any of the episode and can only deduce that it incited some very passionate debates gleaned from here to here.

Of course as with every Filipino meal, there will always be palates to please and quite understandably, my Manila segment got a mouthful. From well-wishing long-time-no-see friends to people who critiqued just about anything from my ‘horrible’ accent to being a host “so bland that I looked and sounded like a call center worker.”

I guess that’s a slice of show-biz life to me, the show is entertainment after all and if anything ,I now know how it feels like to be a Sharon Cuneta or Piolo Pascual in the eyes of the world. Hee Hee.

So I will just to wait for my clear DVD copy when the producer sends it to me but for the meantime, here’s the real insider score of the menu I prepared AB, just to put everything in proper context perhaps make the viewers understand why the Manila segment came out that way.

1. Producers Choice.  First and foremost, its the producer’s who have the first and last say, while we resource persons are given opportunities to tweak and add our inputs to the show, at the end of the day its is the producer’s call. Hence for the Manila segment, the theme was ‘gritty but tasty with a Chinese-Spanish fusion input.” Hence the Binondo Chinatown bit. I’ve heard of complaints on why I had to do Binondo as opposed to the swankier joints in Greenhills or Makati. As any true-blue Manileno would know,  Binondo is the one true culinary-cultural heartland of the city which certainly fit the theme set by the producers.

2. Time Constraint. When you have two days to shoot in a metropolis as big as the island republic of Singapore, you wont have everything in a mouthful no matter how hard you try.  Oh, and did I tell you the whole of the Binondo segment took an hour, the dampa took three and the host had about 5 hour rest period in between.  Probablly not much time as the host should have put I guess he doesnt take too much to the heat and  long shooting hours.

Here is the complete Manila menu we cooked up for AB:

1. Lumpia (Sariwa at Shanghai)

2. Taho (taken at random)

3. Siopao

4. Chickenballs (not my first choice as this was taken at random because there was no fishballs available!)

5. Mamang Sorbetero cheese, ube or mango ice cream (couldnt find one when you need them!)

6.  Pinakbet

7. Adobong Hipon

8. Ginataang Alimango na may Kalabasa

9. San Miguel Beer (two pitchers mostly finished by AB)

All told, my hats off and a BIG THANK YOU to all those who took time (Augusto the Catalyst, ClaudeTayag  my half-Kabalen, Rich the local fixer, Marketman and his crew, Chef Gene Gonzales of Cafe Ysabel and Juday, one of my favorite actresses) to present our cuisine and our culture in a truly informative, passionate and true-to-its-roots way. Verbal slip-ups, nervousness and ‘horrible’ accents aside, I hope this concerted effort by everyone will have helped in changing perceptions,  gaining appreciation and marketing the culinary heritage of our country.  Every little step counts.

ab-shoot-3

A parting shot of my last meal with Bourdain.  Plate to the top left is AB’s, top right is mine. Just look how we both lapped up the crabs. Yum!

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Oh, and while we’re at it, check out my culinary find from a recent backpacking trip to Cebu , if  Anthony Bourdain or any other food show hosts ever walks by again,  I’m taking them here!

bantayan-buffet1

Imagine, 50 + dishes, GOOD quality, the freshest seafood, clams the size of my fist,  liempo, local salads, oysters, gigantic fishes, sausages, meat dishes, noodles…the list goes.

All for P300.00 per person!

Too bad its not anyway near where I live but for this, I would seriously consider another 3 hour road trip from Cebu City and a one-hour ferry ride to Bantayan island.

Food heaven indeed.

財!


Kiong   Hee     Huat     Tsai  !

newkid1

Oh yes, its that time of the year again when

we BINGE ourselves silly as we welcome the

the Lunar New Year with a BIG, BIG BITE!

It's the BEST time of the year to WOK around

Chinatown as we say goodbye

to a RATTY year and welcome the YEAR

of the OX!

COWabunga!


The BIG Binond Food WOK!

Nibbling Our Way Through Chinatown

(Special 2009 Chinese New Year Edition)

Dates: January 24, 2009 Saturday
1st WOK @ 8:00 AM
2nd WOK @ 2:00 PM

January 25, 2009 Sunday
1st WOK @ 8:00 AM
2nd WOK @ 2:00 PM

Chinese New Year this year falls on January 26, 2009.
Rate: P999.00/head inclusive of tasting menu. LIMITED SLOTS.

Text +63917-329-16-22

email: fun@oldmanilawalks.com

details at www.oldmanilawalks.com

Reservations required


So much anticipation, so much disappointment and abated breadths but finally after years of laying in slumber, this white elephant has been awakened and put into good use.

And of course, like the many travelers out there, I too awaited the day when the NAIA 3 opened her doors and Manila can rightfully have a gateway worthy for our 7,100 islands.

Well, it happened last June when the NAIA- 3 swung its doors open to the flying public.  So  like a kid in a newly-opened toy store, I was only too giddy check out and immediately grabbed first chance to fly out to Bacolod who just happened to also have the new Bacolod-Silay airport.

Two new facilities, two different impressions, read on.

The Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminal 3(NAIA 3)

Location: Parañaque, Metro Manila

the Bacolod-Silay Airport

Location: Silay, Negros Occidental

One of the halls of the NAIA Terminal 3.  High high ceilings, there must have 5 of these but only 1 (or 2?) were operational. It’s easy to find your way through as currently there are only 3 airlines operating within: Cebu Pacific, PAL express and Asian Spirit.

The NAIA 3 is big (by Philippine standards), from the outside it does’nt give this impression with its low facade. Not quite as jaw-dropping as Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi or Shanghai’s Pudong. How I wish that given the money spent and the long time it was built, it could have at least been an architectural statement.

Guess not.

Anyway, the building design is pretty straight forward, immediately after the check-in counters at the main hall, the immigration booths follow.  Currently, these  only serve as the terminal fee ticket booths (P200.00/person).

Behind these booths is the final security check- body, bags, shoes and the like.

The second floor which will house shops and dinning places still awaits to be opened.

By the number of boarding gates it has,  the NAIA 3 is so much, much larger (and longer) than terminal 1 or 2.  I wasn’t able to navigate from end to end since my gate almost boarding.  If it’s really that long, I do hope management provides for trolley services for the elderly.

There were a few concession stands which have started to operate but it was this stall which my eye. It feels like a glorified sari-sari. Cute. With glorified prices to boot (P50.00 for a can of soft drink).

And should you need to have a stick to take out the jitters for (first-time?) flying, there is a smoking lounge where you can puff away!

There are also lots of payphones along way, prepare change (P1.00 per minute for local calls)

One of the boarding gate rooms.  The chairs have a very cinematic qualities to it. Maybe the management can enhance this by providing for televisions around. Please do not show Wowowee!

Oh, kudos too for  baggage carousels which were spread out and huge. I think I must have counted 10. Good.  You know our penchant for big bulky balikbayan boxes.

All in all, the NAIA 3 was a  fresh experience, surely so much better compared the cramped terminal- 1.

There are still obvious signs of birth pains like unpainted walls,flight screens which were not working but I’m optimistic that this will be dealt with in due time.

My one big rant about the NAIA-3 is that it is seriously devoid of any  ’sense-of-place’. Except for the local faces and the perhaps, Jollibee, there is nothing that speaks of it being in Manila.  Yes, the interiors are modern but a design like that could be in any Asian or North American city. The signs are only in English when in fact most airports have bilingual signage, where’s Filipino?

In Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi,  the first thing which visitor is a huge Thai statue (the type that you’d see in the Grand Palace) and a host of Thai painting in the wall. In this new terminal,NADA.

Here’s what I propose, NAIA-3 management, I hope one of you is reading this.

1. Have a Department of Tourism concession with brochure stands upon arrival. Tourists need information you know.

2. Bilingual Filipino-English signs please.

3. Feed the stomach, yes, but also feed the mind.  Have a quality bookstore which sells Filipiniana books, not just dried mangoes.

4.  Patch up those unsightly brick walls,

5. Put some local touches like artworks, paintings and the like.  Oh, and perhaps you can entice the ‘blind-men band’ at the old terminal (or Kamayan restaurant) to play for the arriving guests.

Off to Bacolod Airport.

In contrast, the new Bacolod-Silay (BS) Airport is just as new but perhaps just 1/20th of the size of the NAIA-3.  What you’re seeing here is the pretty much the whole inside of it. It’s also smack right in the middle of sugar plantation somewhere in the outskirts of Silay (45 mins from Bacolod).  Service from the airport to Bacolod city center is by the chartered vans immediately at the main entrance. At P150.00/head, it’s not too bad as the vans were all new, clean the drivers, quite helpful.  Not much ‘flage-your-own’ taxis so you dont have much of a choice.

I love the wall’s accent which showcases Negros’ local weave.  Compare with this with the NAIA-3 who’s interiors were to sterile and generic.

The facility is really very utilitarian but what it lacks in size, it makes up for substance.  It’s chock-full of details which hint of Negros’ local culture.  Here’s the boarding area a view of the mountains (Mount Kanlaon?)

Painting showing Silay scenes.

And even a mini-photo exhibit showcasing the Negros!  Reminds me of the Rijksmuseum inside Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport. A little art appreciation never hurt anyone and besides, its nice way to pass time.

A tip though, there are two concession stands inside the airport, the one picture above is at the ground floor.  The selection was not much,  I got a small  bottled water (P30.00) and a 1 pack 12-piece Bakiron (barkilyos with pulburon inside)  for about P35.00.  I thought it was the typical airport price….

then I went up and saw this cheery-looking one.  More merchandise, better selection and bigger bottle of water for only P20.00! Then I thought I would use the bakiron index as comparison…well, they had a 1 pack (19 piece) for P38.00!

Lesson learned: Next time, go up the escalator first.

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